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Francatelli, the First Celebrity Chef
Charles Elme Francatelli was born in London in 1835. Originally from Italy, Francatelli was educated in France, where he learned the art of cooking from masters such as Careme.
After returning to Britain he worked as a chef in several large houses in England and Scotland, but by 1839 he was chef at the Cockford Club in London. He is said to have been spotted there by the butler of Queen Victoria’s palace and in 1841 was appointed maitre d’hotel and ‘general chef’ to Queen Victoria at Windsor. Although his tenure in the position was only one year, it was undoubtedly the most successful of Francatelli’s career.
He was then appointed chef at the Coventry House Club, 106 Picadilly, London and this time saw the maturation of his cooking style, where he developed an Anglo-French style of cooking, where he became a translator of French cooking and technology. to English, giving the country (and the English-speaking world) a new set of polished culinary terms to take the place of traditional, rather than domestic, kitchen names. So talking about ‘friendships’, ‘bain-maries’ etc became common.
During his career, Francatelli wrote several cookbooks, and it is these along with his position as a chef that make him the First Celebrity Chef. Despite this, saving money in the kitchen was her forte and she published a cookbook for the common people to make the most of what she had. Likewise, Francatelli is as important to chefs today as it was to chefs 150 years ago.
Below I present Francatelli’s classic recipe for a dish cooked ‘a la Gitana’ (Gypsy Style) which, in the true spirit of Francatelli, has been adapted to suit leftover turkey (he could have used game birds, fowl or fish). This makes a great way to do something different from leftover Christmas or Thanksgiving turkey (it was Charles Dickens, the quintessential Victorian who declared that turkey is the basis of Christmas dinner).
Turkey Leftovers at La Gitana
Ingredients
400g (approx) Turkey leftovers, sliced
225g streaky bacon, cut into 2.5cm squares
30 g fat
1 garlic clove, sliced
2 white onions, thinly sliced
4 tomatoes, sliced very thin
300 ml of sherry
1 tsp paprika
Method:
Melt the butter in a large pan, add the turkey, bacon and garlic and fry on medium heat, turning the turkey until slowly brown everywhere. Pour all the oil into the pan and add the onions and tomatoes.
Pour in the sherry, keep the lid on tightly and simmer gently for 20 minutes, or until the turkey is cooked. Occasionally shake or shake the pan during cooking to ensure that the contents do not catch and burn.
Before serving, stir in the paprika and send the pieces of turkey to a serving dish, pour over the sauce and serve.
In 1854 Francatelli was elected chef de cuisine at the famous Reform Club and has held this position for seven years. Between 1863 and 1870 he managed the St.James’ Hotel in Berkeley Street, then joined the Freemasons’ Tavern in Great Queen Street, a position he held until his death in 1876.
Francatelli died on the 10th of August, 1867 in Eastbourne.
I hope you enjoyed this recipe and a brief history of Francatelli and are now curious to know more about the man and his food.
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