How Much Do Culinary Chefs Make A Year Dallas’ "Ocean Prime" Should Be on Your Short-List Of Best Restaurants In North Texas

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Dallas’ "Ocean Prime" Should Be on Your Short-List Of Best Restaurants In North Texas

There’s something to be said for visiting a five-star restaurant when the city is in the middle of a hurricane: Some pre-planned fans have left their reservations to hide under the covers of absorbent beds nursing hot babies; so that the cook and his staff, having braved the bad weather to appear bravely at work, will be. very much really happy to see you there, and will do anything short of bowing their heads to show their appreciation, serving you exceptional food and exemplary service.

That was my journey, on the fifth day of this December, to Ocean Prime, a beautiful 2006 Cameron Mitchell creation on Cedar Springs Road across from the Crescent Court Hotel in north Dallas. The staff were so happy to see us, and our compliments after eating so much, that while we were drinking our coffee, Executive Chef Eugenio Reyes himself came out to kneel down and chat with us for a few minutes. He is a talented artist.

It was clear upon arrival that my dining companion and I had the place to ourselves. There was another table, with five guests, far from the room. The host kindly moved the table away from the door and any blowing of snow that might escape the doorman. Our server was Shelby Griffing, a five-year veteran of the Ocean Prime and a guide who knows what to eat there.

When Shelby said that the chef was happy with a plate of lollipop chops (the classic American name for frenched lamb ribs and bone), my ears perked up. On a day like this, do you really want to order from the menu? After all, the chef is alone in the kitchen and just wants to show off his favorite dish. Why are you hurting him – or yourself? Under these conditions, go with the will of the restaurant. One has to listen carefully, and, unless you are not involved in this specialty, it is better to choose. The chef, under these conditions, will try to make an effort to shine. Indeed, years of dining in high-end restaurants have taught me that the best food is to be eaten at a time when one can “connect,” so to speak, with the kitchen staff. Don’t neglect to cook properly. Always listen. My father once told me many years ago that he can always see how a man treats waiters. That’s right.

To be honest, I don’t really like lamb, despite my years in North Africa, because it takes a special skill to cook well and it’s so important around the world that its preparation is often sloppy. Often, also, “lamb” literally means “lamb.” Mutton is often musical, tough, and unsavory, the type of animal that makes Australians live in the countryside. I usually go Ocean Prime eating fish, since there are few places to eat good fish in Dallas. I am a racist Ocean Prime Pictures Blackened redfish, served with cornbread and jalapeño corn tartar. I have ordered several times.

But there was something about Shelby’s description of the lollipop lamb sprinkles that made them irresistible, and both my lunch companion and I ordered them. To soothe my palate, I chose three famous Vietnamese people gambaor large shrimp, which is served in a simple tomato sauce with a little Tabasco.

And then came the sheep sprinklers, the little ones. It was very hot. We were not disappointed. At first, the ingredients were great, before Eugenio Reyes worked his magic in the kitchen. These were some of the best, softest, wild and woolly game Oregon has ever produced (as good as, if not better than, Colorado’s, home to some of America’s best lamb). It is often true, in food as in life, that the best ingredients are more than half the battle. But the way Chef Reyes prepared these chops was amazing and, in my experience, unique.

Instead of the traditional lamb recipe, or a variation of it, in which it is rubbed with rosemary and salt, this was served in a milder and slightly sweeter version of the raisin. Get out of this world! The sheep’s fruits were served with small berry-like potatoes. I have never had lamb with sugar or raisins, except once or twice in Morocco. It was fun, and I will remember it.

I asked Chef Reyes later why the lollipop chop is not available on the regular menu, and he clearly replied that it is not possible to find the chops you want every day (although it is available often) and that, also, respecting the gastronomic leanings of his Texas audience, the lamb is not something that people in Dallas want to order every day, no matter how good it is. I think this is smart.

We finished our lunch with a beautiful and very generous crème brûlée with fruit, a rich vanilla custard encased in caramelized sugar. Then I had an espresso with lemon peel.

Executive Chef Eugenio Reyes is a culinary genius. Before taking the helm on Ocean Prime, was sous-chef here but with frequent travel and trips to other Cameron Mitchell restaurants around the country to train staff. He began his career in Columbus, Ohio, at Mitchell’s Ocean Club restaurant. After leaving his native Mexico years ago, Reyes began life in American kitchens at the bottom of the ladder, as a dishwasher, dreaming of the day he would become a chef himself. In twelve years of work, he has learned a lot.

I usually avoid chains, but Cameron Mitchell’s ten locations are not part of a chain because each restaurant is designed for the city in which it is located. Mitchell plans to open his eleventh restaurant, this one in Beverly Hills, California, in early 2014.

Cameron Mitchell’s public relations group said “Ocean Prime it’s the culmination of the creative process we started in 2006 to showcase the best in food, drink, service and atmosphere” in Dallas, and I think it’s fair to say they’ve been successful.

Ocean Prime located at 2101 Cedar Springs Road in Dallas (75201) on the corner of Pearl and across from the Crescent Court Hotel. Even on inclement weather days, it’s wise to make a reservation: (214) 965-0440.

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