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Guadua, Puerto Escondido – Oaxaca Restaurant Review
Guadua is probably the best restaurant and bar in Puerto Escondido in terms of style, quality and craftsmanship. In fact for this reviewer it is a complete falcon above all others.
The designer of this restaurant has done a great job in creating a place to have a bistro on the beach, but with class and subtlety, and without the power of the more common and powerful marine equipment. There’s no walking over a rickety bridge to get to these solid hardwood floors. With its open concept, there is nary a wall hanging of a dolphin, a net, or an enlarged picture of the owner’s giant fish. Although it is a palapa, its configuration does not only serve as horizontal pillars and slats to support the palm leaf; The columns are beautifully constructed and unique, worthy of a mention in Architectural Digest. Lighting, while limited due to nighttime eating, is provided by light bulbs that hang inside intricately designed balls.
Waiters greet you promptly, grab your drinks and return with a basket of warm, hand-sliced bread. Recorded music has a Latin new age, but not until a Cuban-born fifty-year-old settles down with a friend in the corner to enjoy a soft familiar song and a strange Spanish song. Otherwise you can hear the sound of the waves, the sand at your feet and just the ocean.
Our first appetizer was the tuna timbal with couscous, made of cold couscous and seasoned with cucumber, purple onion, avocado and fresh tuna marinated in garlic ginger soy sauce. Each ingredient retained its flavor. Soybeans are used enough to not overpower. The highlight for its ability to showcase every component was the eggplant bruschetta… purée with roasted tomato, melted Roquefort and homemade mayonnaise, on top of the requisite thick toast.
The white fish cooked in rosemary butter was well prepared, and came with sides of salad and mashed potatoes. My long pasta with parmesan and cream cheese with crushed cardamom was perfectly cooked, but needed a little doctoring to bring out the Indian spices. Tuna fish has its own “scarce inside” payoff, which is often difficult to find in restaurants in southern Mexico. Again the marinade, teriyaki, was well diluted.
We finished our cena with snifters of Torres 10 brandy, and shared a lemon cherry frozen to a perfect consistency, with hibiscus flower coulis, and then a person growing a person dark chocolate cake filled with melted white chocolate, accompanied by vanilla ice cream and cocoa brandy sauce.
The menu selection at Guadua covers all bases, so there’s little chance you’ll struggle to find mouth-watering offerings. But expectations end there. Whether it’s guacamole with grasshoppers or roasted vegetables with vinegar from the spices; arugula salad topped with parmesan slices, figs and lemon oil vinaigrette; burger or baguette; tomato dill sauce and sautéed shrimp; filet mignon cooked in green pepper brandy cream sauce; or a wide selection of seafood, each decorated with Guadua’s own touch.
With tips and taxes included, appetizers, soups, salads and snacks cost from 50 to 100 pesos; and entry from 100 to 160 pesos. Hard to beat? I thought so too!
Guadua
Tamaulipas esq. and Zona Federal
Col. Brisas de Zicatela
Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca
Tel: (954) 107-9524
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