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Guide to Vientiane, Laos

Vientiane

Unlike the big cities in Southeast Asia, Vientiane is not a 24/7 commercial hub. Its relaxed atmosphere makes it feel like a small town, which makes sense, because that’s what it is.

If there was a competition for ‘Mellowest Capital in the World’, Vientiane would win. Backpackers go south to get drunk and float down the river that runs through the village of Vang Vieng. More advanced travelers arrive in Laos’ capital, Vientiane, often before heading to Luang Prabang. Unusually for a capital city, Vientiane is located across the border – which is with Thailand, on the other side of the Friendship Bridge. The influence that shines brightest, however, is French. Originally, the name was gallicised. The original name, Viangchan, which means ‘City of the Moon’ in the Lao language, was too difficult for the French.

Expect French food, French flowers (marigolds), and even the Arc de Triomphe – well, the ugly concrete, called the Victory Arch. Named Vertical Runway because it was built with cement donated by the United States in 1969 to build an airport, the monument is taller than the original, although French, but unfinished. The sign opposes this to the turbulent history of Laos, perhaps referring to the punishment imposed by the French, Japanese, Chinese, Burmese, Vietnamese, Thais and Americans. But that was all a while ago. Even the brand recognizes the monument’s weaknesses, calling it a ‘concrete monster’. No spin here. Cynics may wonder why a landlocked communist country still can’t come together and finish the job. The decrepitude that the arch produces also extends to the streets, so be careful not to step into a pothole or ditch.

Also watch out for the tuk-tuk drivers, who are as enthusiastic as any you’ll encounter in Asia. Always set a price and define your destination before you jump. Otherwise, expect to be taken to the wrong side of town to receive more Kip – worthless money – than you’re willing to cough up. The best solution is to ride a white tuk-tuk in one of the best and cheapest places in Vientiane. At Kip’s most extreme you can experience a massage that’s far more brutal than that of a Thai massage therapist – and in a lot of space.

Blessed with pockets of Indochinese style and very happy residents, Vientiane combines Gallic style with Asian mystique. This style also includes dipping into the sauces and aromas of fine dining found in the finest French restaurants in Fountain Square. For those travelers who are sick of the sweet and sick wheat that is falsely referred to as ‘bread’ throughout SE Asia, the baguettes and breakfast pastries available in Laos will make a big difference.

Another culinary option in Fountain Square is the Mekong. Near its bank there are many cheap but good Asian restaurants where diners sit on the mats and watch the sun set over the river while sipping a cold Beer Lao beer, which is a regular and very tasty beer. If you can get away from the attractions of Vientiane, then you should go to the Lao National History Museum. Standing on the highway, it seems boring, but it is relieved by his jingoistic rage against the attacker. Check out pictures of farmers shooting and reviews of chunky guns. ‘Arms controlled by the United States for its puppets,’ one caption screams.

If your back can manage the distance of 24 kilometers, then you will take a trip from Vientiane to the most interesting and interesting place: the memory card symbol, the garden of Buddha Park. There, tilted at crazy angles, giant concrete statues of Buddhist and Hindu deities run alongside fascinating depictions of real and imaginary monsters. The most important must be the three-dimensional pumpkin-like representation of Hell, Earth and Heaven, which is interspersed with the jaws of a demonic head. More than religious, but a fun day. Apparently designed by Salvador Dali when he was drugged out of his eye, the Buddha Park began in 1958 and was once owned by the mystic Luang Pu Bunleua ​​Sulilat, who left Laos after the communist takeover in 1975. The park transforms itself with golden temples and urban chic that sticks to the rulebook but, like Buddha Park, also has a slightly more visual feel about it.

Although these attractions are worth a visit, Vientiane does not have much of a surprise and instead attracts attention with its calmness and beauty. It’s a place to eat, people-watch, relax, get a massage, maybe visit one of the famous night spots. Vientiane does not have electricity, but, for many tourists who have enough money to use energy in their daily lives, this is just what the doctor ordered.

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